Moisturisers – What, Why and Which…

basics-of-skin-care-moisturisers-the-skin-care-clinicAs with any product, choosing the right moisturisers depends on the type of skin you have, as well as understanding your skin’s current needs, which are always changing. That is why it’s a good idea to see a skin care professional regularly so that you can be prescribed the right products for your individual skin. There are so many products on the market, it can be confusing as to which ones are essential and which ones aren’t.

A moisturiser is one of the fundamentals of skin care. The purpose of a moisturiser is to increase or maintain hydration levels within the Stratum Corneum – the outermost layer of the skin. A moisturiser isn’t necessarily about actively promoting change in the skin. Rather, maintaining the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF) and, in turn, slowing the rate of premature ageing and free radical damage. There are three main types of moisturisers – humectants, occlusives and emollients – and they each work in different ways to maintain/increase hydration levels in the skin.

 

The 3 Types of Moisturisers

Humectants are ingredients that are able to attract and draw water to themselves. Either from the atmosphere or from the lower layers of the epidermis and dermis. As well as increasing hydration levels in the outer layers of the skin, this increased hydration “plumps” the skin. Leading to a temporary reduction in fine lines and wrinkles. Popular humectants found in products are Hyaluronic acid and Lactic acid (in small percentages).

Occlusive ingredients work by trapping moisture on the surface of the skin, therefore reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). It also works to smooth the skin by filling in the gaps between the corneocytes in the Stratum Corneum. Therefore, acting as an emollient. The effects of occlusive ingredients are only temporary. They stop as soon as they are removed from the skin. Look for ingredients such as Shea Butter, Macadamia Seed Oil, Jojoba Oil, Beeswax and Silicones.

Emollients are ingredients within products that are used to smooth and soften the skin. They fill cracks and gaps in between corneocytes in the Stratum Corneum. Similar to occlusives, they prevent water loss on the outer layer of the skin by providing a barrier. Common emollients are Shea Butter, Tocopheryl acetate, Lecithin, Vitamin E and Seabuckthorn fruit oil.

 

Which Moisturisers are Best for you?

 

An oily/congested/breakout-prone skin

Your skin will more than likely want to go for a moisturiser that isn’t too heavy or thick because of the higher amount of oil in the skin. Steering clear of emollients and occlusives is best for these skin types. Remembering that an oily/combination skin can still be dehydrated, Humectants work best for these skin types.

 

Mature/Dry Skin

You can use either an emollient or occlusive moisturiser. It can also be about finding the right texture that feels good on your skin.

 

 

Sensitive or Reactive Skin

It’s best using something that acts as an occlusive. Usually  these skin types are barrier impaired and need something to trap that moisture on the epidermis.

 

New technology in cosmeceuticals means that moisturisers now contain specialised ingredients that can influence cells in the deeper layers of the skin via cell to cell communication. Ingredients such as peptides, growth factors and antioxidants provide that extra support to the skin, however if you are really serious about effecting change in your skin, applying them topically as serums under your moisturiser is the smart way to go.

 

Moisturisers with UV Protection

Don’t forget everyone needs UV protection every day! You can add it after your moisturiser or have it as a combined product. Our fave is CosMedix Hydrate+ for all but the super oily and acne skins.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Still not sure?

If you need more help or would like personalised advice, book now for your consultation with a skin care advisor. Offering information on what skincare products are best for you. Check out our range of in-clinic services today.

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Otherwise fill in the Online Skin Consultation. Our skin care advisor will happily help you. Choosing the right treatments and products for your skin type or concern.

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