Have you ever wondered why we layer skincare products, and whether the order of products matter? Most of us use multiple products in our skincare routine and applying these products can be a meticulous ritual, layer by layer in a specific order. But is the skincare order and layering in which we use our products actually important? Here we will delve into the purpose of layering and the correct sequence.
Layering with purpose
Layering products allows for each product and step to maximise its purpose and the delivery of its skincare benefits, from cleansing all the way to moisturising. There are also questions about ingredient compatibility. There are ingredients that simply don’t go together in the same formulation. Some ingredients are water-soluble, others are fat soluble. Certain active ingredients may work best in certain types of formulations, while others would not. Applying a multitude of skin care actives can benefit our skin, but trying to pack them all into one single lotion might compromise the stability of the formulation.
This is where it makes sense to layer each product. Certain targeted ingredients especially, should only be applied where needed, either because it would be a waste otherwise, or because it might unnecessarily irritate the skin. Some areas of our skin are drier or oilier than other areas seem to be, and other areas are prone to break-outs, age spots, sensitivities and wrinkles. Our faces are puzzles, composed of areas that often have a life of their own. Layering products allows us to give all puzzle pieces the right care.
Why order of products matters:
As a general rule, products that are lighter in texture should be applied before heavier products such as humectants (water binding ingredients) and before an occlusive sealant, like oils, butters and heavier creams. This allows for maximum results and benefits.
Why choose a brand system?
A lot of the guesswork can be taken out of layering and product order by choosing a core skincare system by one brand. We’re talking daily staples like cleanser, toner, moisturiser, etc. Most skincare systems are designed and formulated to ensure ingredient compatibility, overall efficacy and layering safety within the same system.
When creating professional products, brands carefully look at each product and the ingredients in the sequence, and how well they layer and work together towards the desired goal.
This is not to say that you should never mix & match from different brands. Especially when it comes to items like masks and exfoliators which fall outside of your daily routine. Products such as these are a nice way to round out and personalise your routine. Aside from this, most professional products use similar, if not the same, delivery systems and similar ingredients, so if you prefer a vitamin C from Aspect Dr, but want to use a vitamin A from Osmosis, then this is perfectly fine.
Skincare Order and Layering of products
STEP 1 – AM and PM:
Make-up remover & Cleanser
If you wear make up, the first step is to completely remove it. Oil cleansers are a great option to remove makeup and SPF, before following up with a gentle cleanser to clear out pores.
STEP 2 – AM or PM – weekly
Exfoliator
Whether it’s a classic granular scrub or enzyme treatment or a combination product, exfoliating should generally follow after cleansing. Keep in mind that skin tends to be more sensitive after exfoliating, so you might want to avoid applying active products such as retinal, until the following day. If you have very sensitive skin, stick to exfoliating in the evening, so your skin can rest and recover overnight.
STEP 3 – AM and PM:
Toner
I’m not a huge fan of toners, but they do have their place, especially for those with excessively oily skin. If you do use one, it should be applied after cleansing and exfoliating. Especially if it’s a humectant-rich soothing toner as it will help counter the drying effects of tap water and draw hydration to skin quickly and efficiently.
STEP 4 – AM and/or PM:
Acne treatment
Anti-acne actives should be applied only to affected areas before other products are layered on top, in order to allow full acne-fighting efficacy. Depending on the severity of break-outs, this step is often reserved for night-time only.
STEP 5 – AM and/or PM
Growth Factor / Peptide / Hyaluronic Acid Serums
These anti-ageing and hydrating serums are usually quite thin and work best when they can penetrate into the skin on their own, to be more effective. Serums such as Osmosis’ StemFactor should be allowed to soak in and penetrate before applying other serums on top. A good tip is to apply your growth factor/peptide serum, brush your teeth, then continue with layering.
Hyaluronic serums are designed to boost moisture, so using one prior to moisturising is a good idea as it acts as a humectant, locking in that moisture.
STEP 6 – AM and/or PM
Anti-aging serum
In the morning you would apply your vitamin C serum to reap its protective capabilities, and of an evening you would apply your retinol, or retinol like product (such as bakuchiol)
Note: Anti-aging serums containing Retinol should not be applied on top of anti-acne treatments. Together they can be too irritating as acne treatments usually contain acids such as salicylic, which, mixed with retinol, can cause inflammation.
STEP 7 – AM and PM:
Eye Cream
Eye creams are formulated specifically for the delicate eye areas to address issues like dark circles, puffiness and fine lines, as well as dryness and dehydration. If you are using an eye cream that contains retinol, such as Cosmedix Elite Eye Doctor, make sure this one is applied at night time only. A great option for a day time eye cream is Medik8’s C-Tetra Eye.
STEP 8 – AM and PM:
Moisturiser
Moisturiser should lock in moisture or balance oil, strengthen your protective barrier and ensure continuous hydration. You can switch the order of Step 6 & 7, and apply your moisturiser before the eye cream, however, make sure you spare the eye area. This is because a lot of all-over moisturisers are not formulated for the sensitive eye area, and also because you don’t want the moisturiser to weaken absorption of the eye cream.
If you are using a moisturising mask, then this should be applied at night, on top of your serums or after you moisturise, for a deeper hydrating effect. Sheet masks can be applied the same way.
STEP 9 – AM:
Sunscreen
During daytime, your last step should always be an all-over, broad-spectrum sunscreen to give you that protective shield from the damaging UVA and UVB rays. If your daytime face moisturiser contains sun protection, you can skip this step, as long as you apply it evenly all over your face and neck. Don’t forget the back of your hands, ears, lips and chest too, as these are the areas we often forget, but always show signs of sun damage. Foundation should go on top of the sunscreen, after allowing it time to set and penetrate skin.
Weekly Masks – AM or PM:
If you choose to use a weekly or twice weekly mask, such as a purifying clay mask, these should be applied on dry, freshly cleansed skin.
An exfoliating mask, such as an enzyme based mask, should be used like an exfoliator, straight after cleansing.
Glycolic Masks, such as Medik8 Sleep Glycolic Overnight Peel, should be applied after cleansing and before serums and moisturisers.
By following a good layering system and understanding your products, you will get the most out of your skin care.
Best Selling Skin Care Routine
If you need any help in choosing your skin care, you can email us at info@theskincareclinic.com.au.
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